Monday, July 26, 2010
Dont fall for eBay scam sales
CLEVELAND GOLF CLUBS
There are a number of persons selling cheap Cleveland golf clubs on ebay. I purchased a set of clubs and recieved them in a box with a strange logo printed on the side. After looking at the clubs I contacted Cleveland and was informed that all Cleveland golf clubs should coming in a box with a Rossingol/Cleveland logo they informed me that there is a number of people selling fake cleveland clubs that have been manufcatured in China and are not made of the same materials as the originals. Cleveland have recieved a number of these clubs sent to them due to failures and they have inspected and confirm they are CHEAP copies. If they are really cheap they are fakes.
Backround information on IRON-ON hotfix items
On each rhinestones there is glue attached at the reverse side which is flatback. the glue types are SILVERBACK and GREENBACK. They both stick well to materials but the Greenbacks have a slightly stronger bond. Silverbacks would be used on thin material where the reverse side would be visible like veils. the greenback leave a slight dark patch on the reverse side. For most cases greenbacks are perfect.
The rhinestones have aSILVER foil underneath to give them the best shine and sparkle. and under the foil dry glue is affixed.
The glue melts at approx 340 to 375degrees. The glue needs to melt and adhere to the fabric to give it strength.
For fabric iron-on items the glue melts at 110 degrees.
To apply, you can use a variety of tool, but the household iron does a very good job and is easily available. PLEASE try on a scrap piece of material if you feel the material may get damaged.
Information on making your own fabric iron-on items.
All iron-on items have glue that is affixed to the base. some glue types are dry strips and others are special glue that is pasted at the base and within 30 minutes the glue dries, ready to be used when ever required.
Both of these types of glues are available at certain sources, they are not easy to find as no-one wants to give away secrets which in time will loose them money.
TIP - you can use the gun glue that can be baught from any diy stores, the ones i mean are round clear rods which melt under heat. all you need to do is melt this glue then spread it over your item ( fabric patch or badges etc..). the glue will dry up quick o as soon as it has melted you will need to apply thinly quickly.
once the glue has dried then the patch can be used whenever required. once you place a med to hot iron over the patch the glue will melt again and stick to the fabric.
At first this process will be a bit messy but after good practice you can make your own iron-on patches.
IF YOU LIKE THIS HIDDEN SECRET THEN PLEASE VOTE YES.
We do sell all types of iron-on items. our items are made from the manufacturers, so they are good quality and with special fabric glues.
You can also buy iron-on tapes which you just peel of and then iron-on to any types of garments, then you can write or draw. this is ideal for writing names on socks, shirts, or even kids school uniforms. we will be supplying these within a few weeks. but they can be found from many sources.
If you are interested in any particular iron-on items then please mail us as we do specialise in a large variety of iron-on good and might be able to help or put you on the right directions.
GUIDE TO APPLYING WINDOW TINT TO YOUR VEHICLE
Doing your own window tint is a great way to save money. Pre cut window tint is the best way to go with tint supplied in the correct sizes/shapes for your vehicle. If you have an unusual vehicle then you can buy tint on the roll which you can cut yourself as we did on the ram van shown below. It takes a little longer but superb results are possible with time and patience. It can save you hundreds of pounds.
I have listed some easy to follow instructions below.
Make sure your windows are clean and completely free from dirt/grease.
Fill a squirty bottle with water and a touch of washing up liquid.
Make sure you completely cover the window in the water/soap.
Peel the backing film off the window tint.
Spray thewindow tint with the water/soap well before placing on the window. This ensures that once applied you will be able to move the tint easily around the window without it sticking.
Apply the tint to the window and move it into the correct position.
Spray the back of the window tint wit the water/soap.
Using a credit card (or something similar) remove the excess air and water from under the tint by smoothing the tint down with the credit card. Do this until all water and air bubbles are gone.Start in the center and work your way to the edges. Then take a lint free cloth and dry around the edges of the tint and then smooth out the tint with the cloth.
Then leave the tint to dry.
Watch Terms Explained: Part 1 - A to M
If this guide helps you please vote for it by pressing the YES button below. Thanks.
Analog Display
The time display is shown by hands and a dial, he opposite to digital display.
ATM
The water pressure rating of a watch. ATM means atmosphere and is equal to 10 meters of depth. 1 meter is 3 feet, 1 ATM is 10 meters, 5 ATM is 50 meters
Automatic watch
Awatch that has the mainspring wound by the movement of the wearer's wrist rather than winding a stem. Also referred to as a 'self-winding' watch. A weight, the rotor, is turned by the motion of the wrist thus winding the mainspring. The energy generated by the movement of the rotor is transferred into the mechanical energy of a spring and then to the watch movement. If an automatic watch winds down most of them can by wound by hand or shaken to get it started again. The system was invented for pocket watches in Switzerland in the 18th Century by Abraham-Louis Perrelet. This system was successfully adapted to the wristwatch in 1923 by John Harwood, an English watchmaker
Bezel
The ring around the crystal on the top portion of a watch. Usually made of metals such as gold, gold-plate, platinum or stainless steel. Holds the glass or crystal in place.
Bi-directional Rotating Bezel
Abezel that can be moved either clockwise or counter-clockwise. Used to make mathematical calculations or keeping track of elapsed time.
Bracelet
Ametal link watch band
Bubble Back
Term given to the case back of the first style automatic watches by Rolex due to it's bubble-shaped screwed case back.
Butterfly Clasp
2 ends of the buckle on a bracelet fold over into the centre. On a deployant clasp one end folds over the full length.
Calendar watches
Have subdials or pointers indicating the month, date and sometimes day of the week.
Simple Calendar - shows the Date of the month only
Day-Date Calendar - shows the Date and the Day of the week
Complete Calendar - shows the Date, Day of the week and the Month
Carat
1 carat equals 1-24 of fine gold. 18 carat gold contains 18-24 fine gold or 75% gold content.
Case
The container that protects the watch movement. It also gives the watch an attractive appearance. Cases come in many shapes, round, square, oval, rectangular. A case is called 'shaped' when it is not round. Cases can be made of different metals including stainless steel, gold, titanium, silver and platinum.
Caseback
The underside of a watch that lies against the skin. Some casebacks are made of crystal allowing you to view the watch movement.
Chronograph
Watches with a built-in stopwatch function. There are 2 independent time systems. One indicates the time of day and the other measures intervals of time. Subdials are used to keep track of seconds and of elapsed minutes and hours. Counters can be started and stopped as desired.
Chronometer
An instrument for measuring time very accurately. For a Swiss watch to be called a chronometer it must meet very high standards set by the C.O.S.C., Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres. The requirements are 15 days and nights at 5 different positions and temperature changes. The Organization of Swiss Watch Manufacturers definition as of 1951: 'A Chronometer is a precision watch which is regulated in various positions and at different temperatures and has received a certificate to that effect'.
Co-axial
The hour and minute hands move around the same axis.
Complication
Functions in addition to telling the time of day. Examples of a complication are a chronograph, a power reserve indicator, an alarm and a phase of the moon indicator.
Crown
Also called a stem. A knob on the outside of the watch case used to wind the mainspring in mechanical watches. Also used to set the time, when pulled out, and for setting a watch calendar, if fitted. A screw down crown is used to make the watch more water resistant and to help keep out dust.
Crystal
Atransparent cover that protects the watch face. Crystals are made of glass, plastic or synthetic sapphire. Non-reflective coating on some crystals prevents glare.
Plastic Crystals
Acrylic, soft and flexible so they resist small impacts.Surface scratches can be buffed out.
Mineral Crystals
Heat-hardened glass about 10 times harder than plastic. Extremely scratch resistant but must be replaced if they do scratch.
Sapphire Crystals
2 - 3 times harder than mineral glass and virtually scratchproof. They are quite brittle so are more likely to crack or shatter than mineral. Replacement cost is substantially higher than for mineral crystals.
Date Display
Display of date on the dial of a watch.
Day/Date watch
A watch that indicates the day of the week as well as the date.
Deployant Buckle
Abuckle that fastens to the watch strap and opens and fastens using hinged extenders. Invented by Louis Cartier in 1910. A deployant buckle is easier to put on and remove than a strap. Deployant comes from the verb 'deployer' which means to unfold. Sometimes mistakenly referred to as a 'deployment' clasp.
Dial
The face of the watch showing the hours, minutes and sometimes seconds.
Digital Display
Time is shown by using digits, numbers, instead of hands and a dial.
Display Back
Acaseback that is transparent so that the movement may be viewed.
Escapement
The most important part of the watch. Converts the energy of the mainspring into equal units of time. The escapement allows the power stored in the mainspring to be released in a controlled manner. The regularity is controlled by the balance and it's spring. The escapement controls the rotation of the wheels and thus the motion of the hands. It is fitted at the end of the gear-train and is designed to interrupt the movement of the wheels at regular intervals.
ETA
Leading manufacturer in Switzerland for movements used in many Swiss watch brands.
Fly-back hand
In a chronograph there is an additional seconds hand that moves with the seconds hand and can be stopped independently and then made to catch up, 'fly-back', with the other constantly moving seconds hand.
Frequency
The number of vibrations per hour.
Gasket
Most water-resistant watches are equipped with gaskets to seal the case-back, crystal and crown from water infiltration. Gaskets should be checked every couple of years to maintain water resistance.
Goldplating
An electro deposited layer of gold. The thickness is measured in microns.
Greenwich Mean Time
The standard for timekeeping that was introduced in England in 1880 and used as the basis for calculating standard time throughout the world. It reflects the mean solar time along the Earth's prime meridian. The prime meridian is 0 longitude. The prime meridian runs through the Greenwich Observatory outside of London, England.
Hairspring
Also called the balance spring. A small spring that is attached to the balance wheel.
Hand
The indicator that moves over the dial to point at the hour, minute or second. Watches generally have three hands to show the hours, minutes and seconds. Hands can have very different shapes: pear, Breguet, sword, skeleton, baton, arrow, etc.
Helium Escape Valve
Prior to surfacing from great depths in a pressurized enclosure, such as a diving bell, toxic gases that have been formed in the enclosure are removed and helium is mixed into the air. The helium molecules are lighter than air and can therefore penetrate the watch. When the pressurized enclosure surfaces and is depressurized the helium rushes out of the watch so quickly that the glass on the watch pops out as well. The watch was built to withstand external pressure, not internal pressure. The glass popping out can be avoided by opening the Helium Escape Valve on the watch during resurfacing, which allows the helium to escape but prevents water from entering the watch.
Horns or Lugs
Projections on the watch case. There is a spring bar between the 2 horns that is used to fix the strap or bracelet.
Horology
The science of the measurement of time.
Hour Markers
Arabic numerals, Roman numerals or symbols placed around the dial to mark the hours.
Incabloc
A shock-proofing system for mechanical watches in use since 1933. It is the best known shock absorber for watches.
Jewels
Bearings that are used in a watch movement to reduce friction. They are usually synthetic sapphires or rubies. They help to maintain the watch's lubrication with far less friction than metal.
Kinetic
Aquartz movement that does not use a battery. Energy is stored for a period of time through movement of the wrist that charges a capacitor.
L.E.D.
Light Emitting Diode. Used in digital displays on electronic quartz watches.
Limited Edition
Awatch style that has a limited number manufactured. The production of a watch may be limited to 25 or 100 or 1,000 or whatever number the manufacturer decides to use. Each watch is usually engraved showing in what sequence it was made. e.g. 42-100 would be the 42nd watch made out of a total production of 100.
Liquid Crystal display
The time is displayed electronically by using a thin layer of liquid held between 2 plates, the top plate being transparent.
Luminescence
To emit rays of light. A luminescent material is deposited on numbers and hands in order to read the time in the dark.
Main Plate
The base plate on which all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted.
Mainspring
The driving flat-coiled spring of a watch or clock, contained in the barrel. Supplies power to the watch.
Manual-wind
Awatch movement that must be wound manually every day or two to keep it running.
Mechanical watch
Origin dates back to the 14th century. It is made up of about 130 parts assembled in the three main parts which are: 1. the source of energy, 2. the regulating parts, 3. the display. The number of component parts is much higher in so-called complicated watches, date, phases of moon, fly-back hand, etc. The 'Ebauche', about 60 parts, fitted with the regulating and certain other parts, forms the movement, in other words the internal mechanism of the watch, which makes it possible to maintain a constant tension in the spring once it has been wound manually or automatically, by movements of the wrist, and to regulate the display by means of the hands, hours, minutes, seconds.
BRAND NEW MANCHESTER UNITED HOME SHIRT 06/07 XL
Selling Football shirts, is ita con? well according to some others yes, "HOWEVER" I have just bought, paid and received my Man Utd football shirt. I contacted the seller once I seen the negative ratings appear to seek reassurances that I wasn't going to fall victim to a scam or dodgy deal.
I had a very prompt reply and was told that the shirt was dispatched on the Wed to which I was a little apprehensive and concerned if it was the truth. True to his word, the shirt arrived the following Tuesday (bear in mind Mon was a bank holiday).
No matter what other negatives the seller has had or got, I can say nothing but good words on his defence. Cheers for the shirt mate.
Asbestos roofs and other products
asbestos (which includes sale, swap or giving away) is now banned - and
the penalties are very severe. The only way that asbestos of any
type can be disposed of is to an official asbestos disposal point of
which your local council will be able to give you details. The rule now is that NO asbestos is safe. If you are going to be affected by asbestos, blue and brown forms they will get you quicker than the white forms; and precisely who or when people will be affected by exposure to asbestos is uncertain. There is a high probability that exposure to quantities of blue and brown asbestos will cause health problems sooner rather than later. However white asbestos appears to have not quite such an effect (though there is still much risk) and many people show no problems from exposure even many years later. In the seventies I helped cut up asbestos cement sheets in the open air (which reduced the effective concentration), using a circular saw and was covered in asbestos cement dust. I am still alive to tell the tale and have suffered no problems ......... however there are people who have been exposed in a similar way and are now six feet under. I look back at what I did with horror!The ban come into effect at the end of the 1990s. I am being vague because some manufacturers used alternatives fibres with the cement before the ban started, and others unofficially continued afterwards until their stock of asbestos product was used up. My advice is that if pre 2000 assume asbestos or get it tested (see note at the bottom).The good thing is that you do not need to pay someone with an official asbestos carriers licence to move asbestos cement products (this does not apply to soft asbestos cement materials such as wall boarding and pipe lagging which are strictly controlled). Where products such as panels (flat, corrugated or box profile), ridges or soffits, or chimney flues etc, are made of asbestos cement the asbestos content is well bound within the structure of the cement and unless it is broken or fraying are comparatively safe. If you contact your local authority you will find that many have special arrangements for free disposal of asbestos cement products in a domestic situation .... sorry, if it is trade you have to pay an arm and a leg for disposal! Basically the rule is that the owner of the asbestos has to move the material themselves from the site where it is present to the approved disposal point - which often has to be pre-booked. Again contact your local authority for details. Here in Gloucestershire I was able to dispose of the complete roof of a 20ft x 10 ft garage with no problems, but recently I heard of someone from another authority who could only dispose of the first 6 sheets free and then the rest at 20 each (a rip off).When handling asbestos cement products:1. Damp them thoroughly first - this help to prevent the dispersal of the asbestos fibres. 2. If you can, wrap them up with plastic (double wrap with bin liners should be adequate) and seal with tape. This can be left on the material when put into the skip or other disposal point. 3. Handle in the open air and wear a face mask. 4. Use gloves and cheap (paper) overalls (or old ones that can be thrown away), which should be disposed of into the asbestos waste point along with the mask and any contaminated ordinary clothing ... don't expect the wife to wash them because in the past wives of asbestos workers got asbestosis from washing their husbands (albeit heavily) contaminated clothes! 5. Do not cut into the asbestos if the fixings are rusted - cut the bolts or grind off the heads or the nuts. 6. If you have got yourself a little dusty (on hands/face etc) don't worry - it would be mainly cement dust with only the odd asbestos fibre which should cause no harm. If you have wet wipes available use these to clean off the dust and dispose of with the panels, or shower when you get home using plenty of water.7. If it is on the trailer (recommended) or van that moved the material that is contaminated, and is the reason for wrapping up the sheets, wipe the contaminated/dusty area with wet wipes and dispose of with the panels. If hosing off the trailer or van you could get in to trouble because you should not flush asbestos down drains, however in
practice the amount of contamination would be so miniscule
it should not be a risk ..... but be warned! In my opinion this caution should not apply to showering because it is a health issue and contamination should be minimal - but this is just a personal opinion.8. Be very careful about the use of vacuum cleaners because you could inadvertently contaminate you household vacuum cleaner. The vacuuming process would have the effect of concentrating asbestos fibres in the cleaner. Use brushes and dispose of as asbestos waste.Finally, if you have a building with an asbestos cement roof (or it appears to be one) and are worried about it. If domestic (garage/shed etc) and sound then leave it alone - it is not necessary to remove. However be aware that in the event of a fire the fire brigade will usually let it burn itself out (to avoid contaminating themselves and equipment) unless life is at risk. You may also have the cost of decontaminating where there is any fallout (your land and neighbours).ANY commercial building of any type (barns, wharehouses, office blocks, shops, flats, rented rooms, etc etc) should BY LAW have been surveyed for asbestos by now and an asbestos register created - see the HSE website. It should have been done years ago!If unsure whether a material is asbestos it is not expensive to have it analysed - rarely more that 10 (2007). Check yellow pages/HSE website for labs who can do it and take their advice as to how to sample and send to them.
FAKE SONY CAMCORDERS Sony MX-7000
Warning to anyone looking to buy a Sony camcorder, If you see one with with the model number MX-7000, MX-7200 then it is defiantly a fake.
Sony has never done a camcorder with that model number.
Also I have noticed that there are some JVC cameras out there on ebay with the same prefix JVC MX-700 these are also fakes.
People buy these things on holiday abroad thinking they are getting a bargain not realizing they have been ripped off and then try to get rid of them on ebay to unsuspecting buyers.
I report these sellers to eBay but eBay doe's nothing so I thought I would try and help you all instead.
Kids Knex -Lids Kids Airplane Al- on offer at ToysRUs
The Idiots guide to buying
The point of this guide is to help you get a good deal when you shop on eBay, and to make sure you do it safely. Every day people are caught out or disappointed in some way or another. While this guide cant include every pit fall possible when buying it should give you a descent set of guide lines.
First the common acronyms used on eBay
NPB - None Paying Buyer (fairly obvious)NPS - None Performing Seller (they dont do what they should)BNWL - Brand new with labels (price tags dont really count, this means brand tags)BNIB - As above but boxedMIB - Mint in boxTOS - Terms of ServiceBIN - Buy it now Shill Bidding - Using a friends or fake account to try and bump up the final price of an item. (Very naughty thing to do, and can get you banned)Keyword Spamming - adding words to your description that dont apply to what your selling (for example, Nike trainers for sale, NOT adidas, puma, fila, other brand again naughty and not allowed)NR - No reserve price (the starting price is as listed)S
Selling the "Common" Antique or Collectible
Selling the "Common" Antique or Collectible
So you've gone to the garage sale, and taken a chanceon a few nice looking things. Excitedly, thinking your widget must be RARE, you log on to see just how well you did - and with one quick scan of the completed ebay search - yourhopesmelt like ice cream onan equatorial beach. There are six others of the exact same thing on ebay, and none have sold -or have sold for very little. Now what do you do?
Well, some things are best left behindat garage sales, but there is something you can try. It is called 'creating a broader market'. What this means, especially on ebay where the title is your all-important 'grab', is to find that word, that niche, that has not been exploited yet, for your humble item. What does this take? Imagination -- using the old noodle. Sometimes you need to think like a buyer, sometimes you need to think like an advertising executive - but either way, sometimeswhat youdo with your title canwork wonders in selling the common item.
Let me give you an example: You buy a nice potterychicken- or hen-on-nest dish by a known manufacturer,let's call them "AcmePottery Co". Checking ebay, you see there are multiple others just like yours, yet unsold. Many potential listers either give up at that point ordutifully type in the same old title everyone else uses - "Vintage Acme Pottery Chicken or Hen on Nest", thinking "Hey,maybe someone will find it and make a bid". OR, you can broaden your market by using your head. To do this you need to think:What is it aboutthis object that the buyer might like, andthat no one else has exploited yet?Since it is obvious that hen-on-nests by Acme are not selling just for theircollectibility,you need tomarket something else. This can be something such as their usefulness, like being ovenproof,or this can be their style.For my hen-on-nest example, I would choose to emphasize their style, because style has a broader appeal. But what style?I do a quickinternet searchon the words:"hens decoratingstyle".And the term "French Country" pops up in quite a few of the earlyhits. SoI do another ebay search to checkto see if indeed others are using "French Country" as a stylekey phrase in titles. And they do.Adding this style to your title will broaden your market and might make your very common hen sell on ebay - and possibly for more than youcould have normally hoped! So -- use yourimagination when dealing with the common object -- you'll broaden your market, andhopefully become a happy seller!
Replacing Your Watch Battery
The majority of modern watches are now battery operated with the battery needing changed every two to four years. There are hundreds of different watch movements and dozens of batteries to fit them.
Many jewellers will only stock the popular few batterysizes and will have the tools to open straight forward watch backs. Watch Battery Worldstocks every watch battery available along with the tools required to open and close your watch.
All types of watches can have their batteries replaced. There are 3 common types of watch case, the pop-off, the screw down and the screw fitted.
Pop-off watch cases can be easily opened but sometimes require a case press to fit the case back once the battery has been replaced.
Screw down watch cases require a special tool to open and close the watch and are more common on sports
Safe Buying: Scams And Scammers
I buy a lot of music gear on Ebay, and I have been a user and browser for the best part of 6 years. Like most users (and paricularly buyers of expensive items) I have been the target of scammers. I regularly report these fraudsters to Ebay, but have grown tired of their (apparent) inability to prevent these unscrupulous individuals from hacking into my personal email and attempting to steal my money or otherwise deceiving me into paying for items that they do not own. It is with that thought, that I submit this guide, to help others not to get caught by the scammers.
This is a brief introduction to the scams that I have come across in the short time that I have been using Ebay. There may be others of which I am currently unaware, and I will periodically update this Guide as I become aware of others, so please do re-visit this Guide from time to time. If anyone is aware of other scams, please do get in contact with me (through Ebay of course!) and I will incorporate them.
SCAM 1 - the "second chance offer" scam -The most common scam appears to be the "second chance offer" type scam, whereby one is approached by the scammer at the end of an auction and supposedly offered the chance to buy the item, despite the fact that it was "won" by a higher bidder. I am extremely dubious about this type of offer, in any event, and I take the view that a seller should not be permitted to offer the item to "losing" biddders. If Ebay withrew this right, then this type of scam would be nipped in the bud immediately. As a first-off, unless the offer is made from within Ebay itself (which you can access through your "Messages" browser), it is immediately revealed as a scam, since any such offer, if it is legitimate, MUST be made through Ebay. Any offer made to your personal email address is a fraud, and should be reported. Secondly, the fraudulent offer will usually ask you to reply to a Yahoo or Hotmail email address. These addresses can be opened by anyone, without cost, and cannot be traced to the fraudster. Never deal with anyone via such an email address regardless as to whether you buy from them through Ebay or elsewhere. This type of scam is evolving all the time (as us honest punters have become wise to it), and the current trend is for the scammer to pretend that he/she will only deal through Ebay, but to invite you to "show your interest" by responding to a personal email outside Ebay (again, usually a Yahoo or Hotmail address). Do not be tempted, however the offer is phrased, to contact anyone outside Ebay. Simply delete the email from your browser, then check in Ebay to see if the true seller has contacted you (by clicking on the "Messages" button in your Ebay browser). This fraud has become so common that I will no longer respond to any second chance offers, even if they are legitimate (and I have yet to receive a legitimate offer of this type).
SCAM 2 - the "I want to end the auction early" scam - Again, you will be approached by the fraudster outside Ebay, and he will tell you that he wants to end the auction early, and he will offer you the chance to "purchase" the item for your current bid. The scammer will typically use the excuse that he is desparate for the cash, and so is prepared to end the auction early for fast payment. Again, he will ask you to reply to a private email address (again, usually a Yahoo or Hotmail account). Should you do so, you will not receive any item, nor will you see your cash again. The whole story is, of course, a complete fabrication, since the scammer has simply browsed through Ebay, noted that you are the current high-bidder on an item (usually something expensive), then has managed to hack into your private email (Ebay tells you that it does not disclose your email address to anyone without your permission!) and is now pretending to be the real seller.
SCAM 3 - the "Chinese" scam - These are easy to spot. So easy, in fact, that it makes one wonder why the scammers even bother! The scammer will offer an item that was previously offered by a legitimate seller, but pretend that it is his own item(s). The scammer typically uses the same textual contents and photographs. I have seen this scam used merely a few hours after the legitimate auction has ended! These scammers typically have zero feedback, and I wonder that Ebay even permits these users to register! I have made countless complaints to Ebay, and something finally seems to have been done, since this type of scammer has seen a marked decline over the past 4 months. Well done, Ebay! However, do be on your guard about this scam, because there is nothing to stop a UK or European resident user from copying the scam. These scammers will obviously get caught the first time they use this scam, so the obvious safeguard to employ is never to buy from anyone who has a zero feedback score, and never use anyone who has negative feedback, especially those with a low-feedback rating, since they have already shown that they are unreliable.
SCAM 4 - the "fake/replica item" scam - This seems to be rife with the Chinese scammers, too! But is is also used by UK and European resident scammers, particularly with such items as software, dvds and cds, guitars, watches and jewellery. If you must buy expensive jewellery or watches from Ebay-based sellers, establish very early on that the Seller will permit you to have the item verified by an expert before you part with your cash. If you experience any resistence whatsoever, and especially if the seller professes outrage that you should distrust him/her, do not bid! An honest seller will never refuse your request to verify the authenticity of an item, and an dishonest one always will. Report any suspicions you have regarding these sellers immediately to the police, since they are probably perpetrating fraud and deception on a major scale, or are part of a network that is doing so. With software, dvds and cds, be aware that if you knowingly purchase items from sellers that are copies, you are committing the offence of piracy. If you receive items that are obviously copies, report the seller to Trading Standards, whose contact details are easily available over the web.
SCAM 5 - the "pyramid selling" scam - Occasionally, you will see items advertised for sale that require you to contact the seller before you bid. The fact with these "auctions" is that the seller does not actually own the item; all he is interested in, is getting hold of your personal email details, or in selling you something else. Never respond to these adverts, since you will inadvertently be putting yourself onto a database that will be released, without your consent, to all-and-sundry, and you will thereafter be bombarded with junk mail. Either that, or your details will be used for purposes that have nothing whatsoever to do with the item in which you are interested. The easiest way to test this seller is to email them through Ebay, and ask them if you can go and inspect the item (either prior to bidding, or before parting with your cash), as this will flush out whether or not they do actually hold the item. It is a criminal offence for someone to offer for sale an item that they do not own (it's called deception).
SCAM 6 - the "hawker" scam - This is not necessarily a theft-type scam, but I include it here, because it can be just as unwelcome. With this scam, you will typically be approached by someone who tells you that they have seen your bidding on a related item, and they will invite you to bid on their similar item; or they will invite you to contact them outside Ebay in order to do a private deal. By all means, look at their item if it is listed on Ebay, but never be tempted to contact a seller outside Ebay, since you will lose gthe proctection that Ebay offers. Again, this scam can be used to place your details on a database that the user then sells to junk mail hawkers, causing you endless grief for many months to come.
SCAM 7 - the "update your PayPal account" scam - This is a nasty little scam which is aimed at getting you to provide details of your PayPal account to the fraudster. Again, you will be approached outside Ebay, to your private email address, and you will be told that PayPal needs to update or verify your account details in order for you to continue to pay via the PayPal service. I have seen a number of variations on this type of scam, from the simple "we need to update your details" to the down-right threatening "act now or your account will be suspended." The latter is, presumably, designed to frighen and panic you into dealing with the matter immediately, and perhaps thereby encouraging you forget to confirm with Ebay that the message has, in fact, originated from the PayPal service provider. However the message is phrased on no account respond to the message. If the message has not originated from within Ebay it is a fraud; and if you reply to the email you will give sufficient details to the fraudster to enable him/her to access your bank account and empty it. Delete the message immediately, so that neither you nor anyone else in your household inadvertently replies to it.
SCAM 8 - the "shadow bidding" scam - This is a sophisticated scam and a very difficult one to pull off. The scammer will list an identical item behind a genuine auction. It could be listed typically 24 to 48 hours behind the genuine item so that it ends after the genuine auction, and it will be identical in every way. There is a reason for this. The scammer does not actually own the item, but is hoping that his auction will attract higher bids than the genuine item. At the same time, the scammer bids on the genuine item, but always at a price below the highest bid currently being bid on his own "item." If he wins the genuine article at a price less than the highest bid on his own fake item, he simple sells it on for the higher sum, and makes an easy profit. If he fails to get any higher bidders for his own fake auction, he simply stops bidding on the genuine item, and withdraws his own item at the last minute on the pretext that he has sold it elsewhere. As mentioned, this is an extremely difficult scam to pull off, for the obvious reason that the scammer has to list his behind (or shadow) the genuine auction, which makes him vulnerable to discovery. The safest way to guard against this scam is to get into the habit of viewing all items that are up for sale at the same time as the item that you have your eye on, and compare the descriptions. If one item looks suspiciously like another (same type, year of manufacture, defects, colour, etc) investigate further, and look carefully into the histories of the sellers. The scammer will typically have a lower or even zero feedback score. If in doubt, bid only in the auction that is listed to finish first.
STEPS TO PROTECT YOURSELF:-
Observe the Golden Rule: Never Never Never reply to, or deal with anyone outside of Ebay. If they want to get you outside of Ebay, it is because they do not want to be identified.
Never buy from anyone who has zero feedback. We can all prove our worthiness by being good "buyers" first!
Never buy from anyone who has less than a 100% positive rating on a low feedback score: the person has demonstrated that he is unreliable, so why should YOU trust him?
Insist on speaking directly to the seller when you propose to purchase expensive items (set yourself a limit eg items over 1,000 on which you will only bid if you can speak to the buyer).
Insist on paying for expensive items cash-on-collection. This is the best method that I know of which will absolutely sort the con-artists from the genuine sellers.
Always insist on verifying the authenticiy of an expensive item, and never buy from anyone who refuses to do this. You will have to pay the valuers' fee, of course. If the item is overseas, you can arrange for a local expert to provide you with such a valuation report. A con-merchant will always try to dodge this one, for obvious reasons!
If something seems to be suspicious, it usually is: go with your gut instinct and leave the bidding to the idiots.
If you have any suspicions whatsoever that the person you are dealing with is not the true seller of the item, use the "Ask Seller A Question" option in Ebay to ask them if they are the person who has contacted you. It takes 5 minutes but could save you from falling victim to fraud!
Remember, that the scammers are criminals, and when they approach you it is with the intention of stealing from you. They do not deserve any respect and they should be reported to Ebay and (preferably) the police every time. They see you as an idiot, and it is right that you should feel angry and disgusted by this.
I trust that this Guide has been of use to those who read it. If you've read this far, please click on the button to say that this guide was helpful, so that others can be encouraged to read it.
With people power we can keep Ebay safe!
Les Lawrenson (Solicitor, and honest Ebayer (100% rating))
How To Tell If Your Antiques Are Worth A Fortune
How can you tell if your precious heirlooms are genuine antiques or ordinary household items? This guide tells you some of the more obvious pitfalls.
Provenance - This means that you are certain of where the item comes from, you may have a receipt, relevant letter, catalogue entry etc. As a general rule, antique means at least 50 80 years old, and usually over 100 years.
Makers marks. A very good rule of thumb is that if a maker is proud of their workmanship then they will put their name to it. No makers marks (particularly on figurines or fancy china) usually means inferior quality. The main exception to this is antiques pre-1800, before it was usual to put names on goods. Another big exception to this rule is Staffordshire figures, which were mass produced and not normally marked, but can be worth many hundreds of pounds today.
Makers marks include signs and symbols such as swords, crescents, logos etc. Your local library will have a book with the main makers marks in, Geoffrey Godden encyclopaedias are the best. NOTE: Be wary of Crossed Swords, Anchors and Crescents etc as the original are Meissen, Derby and Worcester and there are many fakes and copies.
A word about English Sterling Silver; Sterling Silver has been Assayed (verified and stamped) for over 700 years, and for the last 450 years a little lion has been stamped onto all English Silver - see picture above. Many pieces of silver plated cutlery etc have ornate stamps which look impressive and use symbols, but no lion, no silver.
Look at the quality of your item if its a figurine can you see the individual fingers? Does the face have an expression, eyelashes, crisp edges? Detail is quality. If its crockery, is it translucent (can you see through it)? If its a book, is it in good condition with startingly wonderful or unusual illustrations?
Finally, if you think you have something special, contact your local antiques Auction house. Most reputable dealers will give you a free valuation, although they may charge if you want it in writing for insurance purposes.
Check Out My Auctions and CLICK HERE!
View my ME page - CLICK HERE!
If you found this guide helpful, please click YES - Thank you!
10 Cheap Tweaks for Your Motorcycle
10 no-buck-to-low-buck tricks to help cheapskates get more miles andsmiles out of your motorcycles. Making your bike perform better doesn't have to cost a ton of money. In fact, there areways you can improve you motorcycle that don't cost a penny. Here are ten goodtweaks that aren't wallet-busters...plus a free bonus freebie.
Tweak #1: Adjust your bike's suspension settings to your weight and riding styleCost: Zero (OK, maybe a beer for the friend who helps you do this)Benefit: Improved ride quality and road-holding abilityAlthough many of us wish we weighed 150 pounds (thegeneric weight most manufacturers use to set stocksuspensions), most of us fall to one side of that magicnumber, requiring a suspension adjustment to ensurethat our bike handles properly. Bikes offer varyingamounts of adjustability, but most at least have preloadadjustment for setting laden sag (the amount thesuspension compresses under rider weight) to keep thesuspension in the sweet spot during normal riding. Theprocedure goes like this: Take a measurement with the bike's suspension at fullextension (topped out), and then another measurement with you aboard in full regalia.At the front, measure along a fork leg, and at the rear measure between the axle andsome convenient bit of bodywork directly above the axle line. The difference in distancefrom topped-out to laden (by the rider) is the sag. You're shooting for 25mm to35mmless for sportier handling, more for increased comfort. Sophisticated bikes alsooffer adjustments for rebound and/or compression damping. Check your owner'smanual for how to make the changes and what the baseline settings should be. Makeone change at a time and stop fiddling when the bike feels good to you.
Tweak #2: Fork upgrades such as Cartridge Emulators from Race Tech, stifferspringsCost: $100-$180Benefit: Optimized suspension performance calibrated specifically to your riding styleThe biggest performance handicap on a budget bike? Probably the bargain-basementdamper-rod forks, such as those fitted to the 599, FZ6 and SV650 and most other lowtomidpriced motorcycles. Because of compromises, they can be harsh over smallbumps yet too soft when confronted with big hits. There is cheap help, though; scratchtogether 150-odd buckaroos for a set of Race Tech's Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators,tunable valves that make a damper-rod fork act like a shim-equipped cartridge fork.Installing emulators calls for complete fork disassemblyyou must enlarge the oldcompression-damping holes (negating their effect) and may have to cut new preloadspacers. While you're in there, consider different springs for a firmer ride; many budgetbikes are quite undersprung in anticipation of light riders and modest scratchin'. RaceTech has a nice online calculator to help you find the proper spring rates.
Tweak #3: Upgraded brake pads and linesCost: $30-$50 (pads, per pair), $80-$100 (lines)Benefit: Improved brake feel, less fade, shorter stoppingdistancesEach year more new bikes arrive from the factory withHH-rated pads and braided stainless steel "hard" brakelines for optimum braking performance. Braidedstainless steel or Kevlar-sheathed Teflon lines resistdeformation under system pressure for quicker brakingresponse and firm, mush-free lever feel. If your bike isn'talready equipped with these, make the upgrade. Qualityaftermarket pads use specially formulated compoundsto better bite rotors and hold on longer with less fade. Ifless than 2mm of your existing pad material remains orthe pads are worn past the groove in the face, chuck'em and get good ones. And don't forget to flush andreplace the fluid while you're at it. You'll be amazed atthe improvement.
Tweak #4: Wash and wax your bikeCost: NadaBenefit: Looks better, lasts longer, helps you identify problems early before theybecome expensive nightmaresOK, so you have to pay for some soap and water, but you'd be surprised how far aregular wash and wax goes toward protecting your ride. Suds chase dirt andcontaminants offprotecting paint from scratches and chrome and aluminum fromdiscoloration and damageand flush abrasive agents away from such sensitivesurfaces as fork legs and swingarm pivots. A good wash and wax also lets you inspectyour bike up close to catch any emergent mechanical maladies before they developinto serious problems. Things to keep an eye on while scrubbing: tire-tread wear, tirepressure, chain slack, sprocket wear, oil level, brake-pad thickness, brake mountingbolts, axle adjusters and brake and shift linkages. Don't forget to give your chain a goodshot of lube when you're done.
Tweak #5: Replace your tiresCost: $200-$300 Cheaper with fastbikesBenefit: Better traction, improved handling, safetyNothing brings back that new-bike feeling like new tires.Uneven wear (front-tire cupping, squaring off at the rear)means your tires can be junk well before you hit thewear bars. Even when you're not riding your bike, UVlight can substantially reduce tire life, so you shouldreplace your rubber every few years regardless of miles.Tire technology has made some radical advances inrecent years; if you haven't had new skins since the1990s you'll be amazed how much a new set willimprove your bike's performance. Even sport-touringtires are sticky enough for aggressive street riders.
Tweak #6: Frame slidersCost: $50-$100Benefit: Protect your plastic in the event of a tip-overConventional wisdom says sportbikes are so expensiveto insure because they are so gawd-awful fast. Thisstatement is partially true, but outrageous premiums aremore often related to the fact that sportbikes are soeasily damaged. Even dropping your bike in the garagecan easily result in thousands of dollars of busted plasticand scratched paintand a big insurance claim. Thebest insurance against this is bolting on a set of framesliders: small plastic or metal bumpers that bolt to themotorcycle frame and save expensive fairing bitsand levers, pegs, turn signals,mirrors, anything else that sticks outfrom being fouled in a tip-over or crash. Plenty ofcolors, shapes and sizes are available (even some that light up!), and every last one ischeaper than even one piece of OEM plastic.
Tweak #7: Regear your motorcycleCost: $20-$100Benefit: A cheap way to quicker accelerationExplained in detail in our June 2003 issue ("Torque IsCheap"), shortening your bike's overall gearing can bean easy and inexpensive path to quicker acceleration.This change will come at the expense of a bit of topspeed, but what's more routinetrying to outrun anSUV bumbling into your lane or trying to nudge theneedle over 170 mph? (We thought so.) A slightchangedown one tooth on the countershaft sprocketor up three on the rear sprocketcan often be madewithout lengthening or replacing the chain, but considerspringing for a new chain anyway; a worn chain cangreatly accelerate wear on your nice new sprocket. Thismod does come with some hidden costs: Your engine will spin faster in any given gear,which can increase vibration, and if your bike's speedo pickup is on the transmission orcountershaft sprocket, accuracy will be affected. But if you're looking for the cheapestand easiest path to faster acceleration, regearing is hard to beat.
Tweak #8: Read a bookCost: $20-$40 (less if you're nice to the librarian)Benefit: Become a better rider, wrench, or bothWe're always extolling the virtues of attending advancedriding schools, such as the California Superbike Schoolor CLASS, but let's face itwith entry fees of severalhundred dollars, these are hardly low-buck ventures.Although it's no replacement for real-time, one-on-oneinstruction from acknowledged experts, reading a goodriding-skills handbook like Nick Ienatsch's Sport RidingTechniques ($24.95 from David Bull Publishing, 800/831-1758) can teach you an awful lot of valuable ridingtechniques you can practice on your own each time youride. Similarly, a good maintenance manual to guide youthrough simple maintenance procedures (replacing forkseals, adjusting steering-head bearings, etc.) candeliver you from $70-per-hour dealer labor rates. On this front, Mark Zimmerman'sexcellent, 255-page, full-color The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance ($29.95,Whitehorse Press), is the best one we've seen yet.
Tweak #9: Replace your helmetCost: $150-$500Benefit: Cooler, quieter, more comfortand cranium protection, tooHelmet manufacturers recommend replacing your helmet at least every four yearsregardless of appearance the integrity of the protective polystyrene inner lining, itseems, degrades with exposure to the atmosphere and UV rays. Helmets also startfitting funkily as the inner resilient liner compresses with use, not to mention a differentsort of funk from the hours of close contact with your sweaty scalp. Do yourself a favorand upgrade your headgear to a more modern piece. Like tires, helmets have madestartling advances in the past few years, with space-age shell materials making themlighter than ever. With improved ventilation and sound deadening, even today's budgetlids send yesterday's top-line buckets to the wastebasket. There is no piece ofmotorcycle gear you are more intimate with, and none more directly related to yoursafety and comfort. A good helmet is money well spent.
Tweak #10: Antifog for pennies a dayCost: Zip-$24Benefit: No more vision-robbing vaporSteal a trick from our scuba-diving friends: Once you get that new helmet, pull off thevisor and spit all over the inside of it. Wipe the saliva off with a clean, soft rag and voila,instant antifog coating! Don't like the spit smell? Shaving cream or toothpaste rubbedon the visor and wiped off has a similar no-buck antifog effect. If you absolutely have tospend money, a variety of inexpensive antifog solutions are available at most decentbike shopsour favorite is the oddly named but highly effective Cat Crap for a measly$3.99. Big spenders should check out Fog City Pro Shield's antifog shield inserts, which sell for $17 (tinted) or $30 (photosensitive). All arecheap, effective and loads safer than stuffing your fingers up behind the chin bar towipe the shield on the road.
BONUS Tweak: Ride your bikeCost: Nothin' but fuel Benefit: Keeps your bike working well, improves your 'tudeJust like the human body, your motorcycle respondsfavorably to regular exercise to keep the carbs fromclogging, the tires from calcifying, the battery fromprematurely discharging, the cylinder walls fromcorroding, and any other myriad minor maladies fromafflicting seldom-used streetbikes. Do yourself and yourbike a huge favor and go ride the wheels off it.
visit fast bikes dot org for more tuning and techinical info road and product tests
GERMAN WW2 MEDIC HELMETS FAKE OR GENUINE?
GERMAN WW2 MEDIC HELMETIT SEEMS THE TIME HAS STARTED FOR A LOT OF WW2 GERMAN MEDIC HELMETS TO APPEAR,TAKE EXTRA CARE AS THESE HELMETS ARE EXTREMELY HARD TO COME BY AND I MEAN GENUINE ONES AT THAT.GOOD TO SEE, BUT BEWARE THESE ARE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN AND AS MOST THINGS TODAY FAKE ONES CAN AND DO LOOK ORIGINAL,IF SELLER HAS NO HISTORY TO A HELMETS GENUINE STATUS? THEN IT IS VERY DIFFICULT FROM PICS TO DETERMINE THE VALIDITY OF THE HELMET,AS IT IS VERY EASY TO BE FOOLED.LOOKING AT THE ONES RECENTLY FOR SALE ON EBAY IT IS DIFFICULT TO TELL WHEN PAINTED WELL,SOME DONT PASS THE TEST AND LOOK RENOVATIONS.THE CROSS CAN APPEAR IN SEVERAL TYPES, TOP OF HELMET, FRONT SIDES AND BACK,ON TOP OR FRONT IT WAS CHOICE OF WEARER,THIN CROSS, WIDE CROSS,HAVE EVEN SEEN CHIN STRAP PAINTED WHITE,THE MOST COMMON CROSS IS THE ONE TO THE FRONT,JUST ASK ENOUGH QUESTIONS AS TO IS IT GENUINE ITEM? ANY HISTORY? REMEMBER! A LOT OF MONEY WILL BE REQUIRED FOR AN ORIGINAL, SO WATCH BIDS ESPECIALLY STACK BIDDING FROM ZERO RATED BUYERS WHO WILL MAKE IT APPEAR THAT PLENTY OF BIDS GO IN WHICHMEANS GREAT INTEREST IN HELMET NOT ALWAYS SO!CERTAIN PARTS OF THE WORLD HAVE SEEN SOME DODGY HELMETS FOR SALE,BE ON YOUR GUARD!!!!!!!!! PAY ACCORDING TO THE HELMETS VALUE TO YOU! AND SOMETIMES YOU GET LUCKY BUT NOT VERY OFTEN.BUYING A FAKE ONE IS NOT A PROBLEM IF THAT IS WHAT YOU WANT OR CAN AFFORD.AS LONG AS SELLER STATES THE OBVIOUS? AND NOT THE "I'M NOT SURE IF IT'SORIGINAL OR NOT"OR SOLD AS SEEN, NO RETURNS/NO REFUND, ASK QUESTIONS BEFORE YOU BID AS ALL SALES ARE FINAL,THEY,RE NOT!!! IF ITEM NOT AS DESCRIBED CLAIM THRO PAYPAL,AND IF IN DOUBT BID ACCORDINGLY AS YOU ARE BIDDING ON THE UNKNOWN.....(please indicate below if this has been of help)
REGION GAMES KNOWING THE DIFFERENCE PAL - NTSC ??
So below is a guide to the typical versions you will need for the country that you live in!
PAL REGION
Western Europe
MINUS FRANCE
Eastern Europe
Scandanavia
Middle East
Asia
NORTH,SOUTH,EAST,AFRICA
Australia
NTSC REGION
United States
Canada
Mexico
South America
Minus Brazil
Central America
Bas-reliefs on Wedgwood Jasperware - part 1
As recent converts to the pleasures of Wedgwood Jasperware, andhaving a longtime association with Attic Red and Black-figured vases, we have a particular fascination with the images involved. We have quickly become aware of the pitfalls in dating Jasperware, and that seems inevitable, but we have also found it difficult to identify the subject matter of the bas-relief images. No doubt there are learned works on the subject - but we don't have much access to them.
It is our intention here to begin a catalogue of our own images for our own benefit - but, also in the hope that others will enjoy it, and hopefully help us with identification. Since eBay limits us to ten pictures in each guide, these will come in batches of ten - which is quite enough for us to deal withfor the moment!
AGKC-1 - The Three Graces - William Hackwood, ca. 1773
AGKC-2 - Terpsichore - John Flaxman, ca. 1776/7
AGKC-3 - Bellerophon watering Pegasus - attr. William Hackman, ca. 1773
AGKC-4 - Group with Cage - unknown
AGKC-5 - Ulysses staying the Chariot of Victory - attr. William Hackwood, ca. 1773
AGKC-6 - The Muses watering Pegasus - attr. John Flaxman or William Hackwood, ca. 1775
AGKC-7 - Cupid as Oracle - unknown
AGKC-8 - Calliope - John Flaxman, ca. 1776/7
AGKC-9 - Nike and Warrior - unknown, late 1770's
AGKC-10 - Melpomene - John Flaxman, ca. 1776/7
More soon in "Bas-reliefs on Wedgwood Jasperware - part 2". Meanwhile, we need the interest, support, feedback, and friendship of all the Jasperware lovers on eBay.
We still haven't got this figured out, but if we say we are to be found at AGKC Penthouse Gallerythen you will probably know what to do.
P
royal doulton and lladro figures
Greetings to you all. How manyeBayers have won a figurine purported to be either in mint condition or perfect condition and, when you've received it, you have found chipped or damaged flowers. Buyers beware of the misleading descriptions on listings for figurines, especially those which have bouquets or baskets of flowers with petals and buds. Some sellers are just blatantly dishonest or"economical with the truth" so, when you see a figurine listed as in mint or perfect condition, please e-mail sellers with pertinent questions on the condition of the flowers BEFORE you place your bid and askthem todouble checkthe flowerswith a jeweller's loupe, paying particular attention tounderneath and the edges of them. If there isn't agood clarity, close-up picture of the flower(s), always ask for one to be either inserted in their listing or e-mailed to you. May I suggest that, if there isn't a picture of the backstamp on thefigurine, also ask seller for one to be inserted in the listing and don't forget to ask if the figurine is a SECOND or FIRST QUALITY. There are unscrupulous sellers out there.
I hope this information will serve as a warning and encourage all potential buyers of figurines to ASK SELLER CRUCIALQUESTIONS ON CONDITION OF FLOWERS/PETALS/BUDS and,most importantly,whether there are any missing in the display.
I speak from experience so please take heed of my advice. I was a victim but not anymore.
Fake Multicompound Golf Pride Grips - How to spot them.
The biggest shame aboutall guides from Englandis that it only gets seen in England!!
Afew easy ways to spot fakeGolf Pride grips :
New multi compounds are very tacki the fakes are not
Different shades of the true colours, normally a shade lighter.
No serial numbers on the inside of the grip at the small end.
Less cord in the top half of the grip.
Ebay is flooded with the product especially from Singapore at the moment.
Look at the Golf Pride Logo in white at the thin end of the grip, ifthe White Golf Pride logois not locatedin the middle between the small black indentation marks i.e. closer to one end than the other then its a fake. See layouts below:
Genuine In the Middle: - Golf Pride -Fake White Logo Offset: - Golf Pride -
Below is afew fake sets !!! Look closely at the offset Golf Pride Logo in the green, Red
xxxxxx
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Gucci Twirl warning!
Fancy a Gucci Twirl? Spotted an amazing bargain? Well, maybe it's not as much of a bargain as it seems.
For a couple of years now, the Gucci Twirl has been one of the most popular of watches. Ranging from 525 - 1965 in the shops, Ebay has been the place to get a gorgeous piece of designer chic for a bargain price.
In the last couple of months (I'm writing this in Nov 07), a huge rise has been seen in the number of fake Twirls on Ebay - the counterfeit machine has finally caught onto this extremely popular item. About 80% of the diamond twirls I'm seeing where buyers are private sellers and have less than 20 feedback have been fake.
So how do you make sure that the Twirl you're bidding on is genuine? Well, there are a few tips which could save you hundreds of pounds/dollars. Many of these are common sense tips that apply to any item:
-if your seller doesn't take Paypal, you have to ask yourself why. Are you're willing to buy something of this cost with NO protection whatsoever? In the event that something goes wrong, your only recourse is the police, small claims court or trading standards (if it's a business seller).
- if your seller has low feedback, and you are only covered for 150 via Paypal, think twice before buying. You are not covered for all your money in the event of any issue, be that loss in the post OR counterfeit goods.
-if there are pictures of the actual item (as opposed to stock pictures), compare the detail closely to the Gucci website. Goldsmiths or Beaverbrooks also have good pics to compare against. There are several key things to look out for which are common on fakes:
Firstly, Gucci do NOT currently do a wide twirl (3.3cm wide) with a double row of diamonds. A real double-row twirl is the narrow version only - 2.3cm wide.
Look at the pattern of GG logos on the bracelet. For a wide twirl (3.3cm), rows alternate between 3 complete GG logos per row and two complete GG/two halflogos (look at the websitepics to see what I mean). For a narrow twirl (2.3cm wide), rows alternate between2 complete GG logos per row and1 complete GG/2 halflogos. Any watch that DOESN'T have GG logos cut off at the edge of the bracelet isn't real.
On a genuine watch, the GG logos are cut all the way through on the front of thebracelet i.e. you can see through them. If the item in question only has the logo etched/punched into the surface of the metal, then it's fake NB the links/clasp at the back of a genuine watch ARE etched, not cut through.
For the wide twirls (bothdiamond and non-diamond models), there are 6 'rivets' around the casing surrounding the rotating face.
Ask the seller to send you close up pics of the back of the watch, showing the 8 digit serial number. The number should be on the bracelet around the wace (not the rotating face itself) along with the model number (112) and 'GUCCI'. Any seller who can only send blurry pics where you can't see this detail, or no pics at all, should be avoided to be safe.
A current Gucci watch should only come with a chocolate brown coloured box (same colour inside as out). While this is no guarantee of authenticity (a box and guarantee card can be bought for a tenner), it's a definite warning if the item comes with no box/wooden box with cream inside/green box/other less common varient.
If you still can't make up your mind, drop me a line. While I have little sympathy for someone who buys a new designer bag for 20 and expects it to be real (come on!), it makes me very angry to see people fleeced for hundreds of pounds for a piece of tat. While I cannot guarantee what you'll receive in the end (picture stealing from legit listings is not uncommon), I can tell you if there's anything that I would consider to be dubious on a listing. At the end of the day, you buy at your own peril - find a seller with high/positive feedback to play safe.
Best of luck!
ashes ticket fakes
As ashes tickets are going for alot of money some people are in my opinion trying to sell tickets that don't exsist. I have emailed some people before bidding if I thought them to be dodgy. All but 1 were very respectable sellers. But when I asked a few sellers to provide photo proof of the tickets, 1 of the sellers wouldn't until I have won item. So I stayed well clear of him. So, if you suspect a dodgy seller I think emailing them before bidding with a few questions is a good idea. Usually, not always. But, usually you will be able to tell the good sellers as they will mostly reply and won't mind providing any kind of evidence. Also, try to deal with ebayers with top score when bidding for expensive items. That way you are less at risk.
Good luck if trying for tickets
DEWALT UK not USA
AS AN EX DEWALT REPAIR ENGINEER AND NOW A SELLER OF POWER TOOLS, I DEAL DIRECT WITH DEWALT UK, SO I NO THIS AS FACT
DEWALT TOOLS IMPORTED INTO THE UK DO NOT HAVE ANY GUARENTEE OF ANY KIND IN THIS COUNTRY
THEY DO NOT MEET THE UK CE MARKS--AND NO DEWALT SHOP WILL EVEN LOOK AT REPAIRING THEM UNDER WARRANTY---FACT
MOST ARE INTERNALY DIFFERENT SO PARTS CAN,T BE FOUND----FACT
I HAVE AN INVOICE BELONGING TO A FREIND FOR OVER 300, A CUSTOMS BILL FROM DHL FOR TAXES HE HAS TO PAY FOR IMPORTING DEWALT TOOLS FROM THE USA--I WILL SEND A COPY TO ANYONE WHO WOULD LIKE TO SEE IT, VIA EMAIL OR FAX TO PROVE THIS FACT
DEWALT DC988, 18 VOLT COMBI BARE DRILL SELLS ON THE INTERNET FOR AROUND 70--90 UK OR USA--ONLY UK DRILL HAS A GUARENTEE IN THE UK THE IMPORT DOES NOT---FACT
IF I HAD A CHOICE TO BUY ANY 2 SIMILAR PRODUCTS FOR AROUND THE SAME PRICE, BUT ONE IS GUARENTEED AND ONE IS NOT--I WOULD HAVE THE ITEM WITH A GUARENTEE EVERY TIME--I WOULD BE STUPID NOT TO--- WOULD I NOT ???????
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY WHAT YOU ARE BUYING!
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY...
How many times have sellers been accused of selling something misleading? How many times have buyers accused sellers of misleading adverts? I'll tell you how many - hundreds, if not thousands of feedback throughout ebay is representative of either customers being genuinely mislead and sellers not being clear enough or buyers NOT READING CAREFULLY WHAT THEY ARE BUYING!!!!
Sellers must be very careful when listing their items, particularly if they come in different guises and there are many variations of the same item that they are selling - be genuine in your description - do an almost idiot guide to what you are selling - this way buyers will be appreciative of your genuine description (even if it goes on abit) - at least this way you cannot be held responsible if the buyer gets it wrong.
Buyers - you have the responsibility for knowing what you are bidding on. PLEASE DO NOT LET YOUR CHILDREN BID ON ITEMS - they do not always read the full print and often do not know what they are bidding on. Too many times i have come across other sellers feedback whereby they have been accused of selling something misleading - sometimes the customer is right and the advert is very misleading and as such deserve neutral or negative feedback, But on the other hand, sometimes the feedback is totally unjustified because the buyer has not read the advert correctly.
As a powerseller on ebay i am very clear in my adverts what i sell. I accurately describe all my items as best i can - for it is in my interest to keep my customers happy at all times - because i want them to come back and appreciate the items i sell as being accurately described to the best of my ability.
You too can enjoy this pleasure of selling many items tonew buyers and to welcoming return buyers by listing accurately, by making sure that customers can ask you questions if need be and bybeing as honest as possible.
As a buyer please read carefully, take some time to ensure that you know what you are buying - if you are unsure then ask. If you don't getan answer from any questions asked - the simple solution is NOT TO BUY -then youwon't be disappointed if the item bought is not what you thought it was. On the other hand sellers - dotake time to answer questions and then your customer will happily buy your item with complete faith -
Thanks for taking the time to read this guide - i hope it has helped you in some way - Please vote if it has - Cheers!!
Beware of the main digital camera sellers on eBay!
Although the item might be titled something like 'uk spec', 'unopened maufacturers packaging' or 'with warranty' etc. etc. etc. Several of these retailers are mainly selling reconditioned goods. They don't describe them as refubished in either the item title or the main part of the description. You need to scroll past all of the item info, the manufacturers description, the sample pictures etc and get down towards the bottom. It's down here that you will find the true nature of the goods that you are bidding on.
Typically within a section either described as 'Item condition and warranty', 'Manufacturers warranty' or even just 'Package contents' you will find the only mention of the item being refurbished. They've tucked it away, right at the end because they know that having put in such long item descripions, it's likely that the majority of buyers will not read down this far. Here is an example of the sort of thing I mean. It's taken from a genuine auction, held by a Power Seller with 162000+ feedback (99.6% positive), I wonder how many of these people never realised that there purchase was not new but reburb? Rember this is right at the end in what seems to be the innocuous postage details etc:
Package Contents
Panasonic DMC-TZ1 Digital Camera (Silver)
Lithium-ion Rechargeable Battery Pack
Battery Charger
USB Cable
A/V Cable
Strap
Software CD-ROM
Instruction Booklets
Panasonic Warranty
Bonus: 2GB SD Card ( 129.99 value)
Stay away from fake designer bags: A Preliminary Guide
I am writing this because I got quite angry seeing quite a few obviously fake designer bags bidding up to hundreds yesterday. I am no expert but I have successfully avoided buying fakes following the steps below. It isless technical than someother guideswhich you may also find useful:
1. A comprehensive guide to spot fake Louis Vuitton: Click
2. A more general guide I found useful this morning: Click
3. A more technical guide I found useful this morning: (search for "burberryworld.com/index_files/spot.htm" because eBay does not allow links to outside of eBay in guides) It applies to all designer bags.
If this makes things more complicated for you, here's my preliminary guide.It has more to do with common sense, something you may loose when you come across a bargain you feel obliged to grab, or when you are too into auctions and would not give up until you outbid all others.
1. Avoid listings without specific mentioning of the item's authenticity. There are two kinds of counterfeit sellers on eBay, onesells fakes as fakes and one sells fakes as the real thing. It is hard to say which is more ethical, but both make their listings ambiguous about the authenticity of the item by not mentioning it, avoiding responsibility for it (selling for a friend, unwanted gift, ...) or by putting things like "100% ....(new, genuine leather, mint condition, bargain)" whichlead you to assume that it's 100% genuine. If you really wantan item without specific mentioning of being authentic, take the trouble and contact the seller and if it's a first type seller, they will letyou know.
2. Avoid repeated items. If a relatively high percentage of your search results of luxury brands turns out to be the same bag, it cannot be coincidence. Luxury items are supposed to be exclusive, not something some 10 people would unwant and sell at the same time.
3. Minding the description details. A friend bought a Chanel bag here for half of the price at retailers and the seller says it's from House of Fraser....The seller gets the retail price wrong by some hundred quid?....Seller has received negative comments of selling counterfeits? (buyers risk of getting negative feedback for a reason)....blurring picture....a mini lin speedy has a unique serial number...a weird tag attached to the handle....a stick-on with price on the side of a LV wallet gift box....Too many things can go wrong with a poor fake, don't let it slip your eye.
4. Be more alerted even when you think it looks genuine. Fakes are manufactured according to different quality standards as well. The worst ones can be just anything ofa manufacturer's choice with a logo stamped and the best ones are exact replicas with authentic dust bags, original boxes, carrier bags,serial numbers and even receipts from known stores and these are the ones that usually rip you off big time. Theywill be hard to spot from pictures and the best you can dois consulte-catalogues, friends, forums other than eBay's (I am not sure if you are allowed to do that here) and so on before buying. I have avoided buying a Super A-Class replica very recently by consulting other forums.And if it is worth it, have it authenticated at an authorised retailer within the period PayPal provides protection, don't rush to leave a feedback before you do so, which will be misleading to other buyers.
5. Mmmmm...yes less popular designer bags are replicated as well. Don't you think that just because they cost slightly less than the super big brands unauthorized manufacturers would leave them alone.Be careful when you buy Vivienne Westwood, Juicy Couture, Mulberry, DKNY.... even Kiplings(though I doubt for this one it will be too big a difference).
Mmmm, thought about more things before I started writting, will keep updating it with my other thoughts. It's really more of a reminder for buyers to stay calm and think rationally before placing a bid. Hope it helps in some way.
Sony PS3 - Don't get stung!
Hi, I am an experienced ebayer but have never taken the time to write a guide (well I did once about a game I thought was pretty good) but today I feel as though I should inform as many people as possible about the big risk with pre-ordering PS3's.
This console will be huge and it is extremely likely that there will be a shortfall in the number of stocks that are avaliable in Europe. Some websites and ebay sellers are already offering pre-orders on the consoles, this is rubbish, as although sony have released an expected rrp for the PS3 in november they have not confirmed it in stone, and the trade distributors who have the sole rights to distribute the PS3 console in the UK have not confirmed any trade price yet either. *
Therefore when you see ads saying "we have 100 confirmed units" -they dont. Unless they have a mate who works at the distribution depo and in which case they would probably get you into trouble.
Therefore WAIT! By all means register your interest for a PS3 console, as this is free (or should be,ours at DB's Games.co.uk is free) and then wait until you get conformed information before you commit any money.
By all means register your interest with us, as it costs nothing, just visit our website DBSGAMES.co.uk or register it anywhere else, just hold off sending money!
Check out our ABOUT US PAGE for more info on us and our website!
*All details correct at time of print.
Playstation 3 Scam, Watch Out !! BE AWARE !!
If you know anything about gaming you will know that the PlayStation 3 will be almost impossible to get hold of this Christmas. In fact the only place you will probably have success is eBay. As long as you are prepared to pay way over the retail price.
This is fine as at least if you want a PlayStation 3 the chances are you may get one. However, this causes a problem.
While browsing the PlayStation 3 listings I noticed an alarming amount (over 90%) of auctions simply selling a picture of a PS3 or an email address (the email addresses are extremely common now) or simply a web link. The worst thing was some of these items were offered for hundreds of pounds/dollars to make it look like a genuine PlayStation 3 was being offered.
Obviously there are going to be some very disappointed people out there and this will only damage eBay's reputation. However, most of the listings clearly state what the item is and some would say if you are stupid enough not to read the item properly there is no wrong doing. I would have to disagree as the titles are misleading and it is a scam.
So what can I do to avoid being scammed?
First of all make sure you read the item description carefully, especially the title.
Check the sellers feedback, if they have made their feedback private this is a sure sign of a scam. Also a low rating should be approached with caution. You should also check what other items they have sold/bought in the past. If it is a lot of cheap items be careful as they may have done this just to boost their feedback.
If the eBay account is new be suspicious.
Check the sellers other items for sale. Most sellers will only have one PlayStation 3 for sale. More than one could be a sign of a scam. Unless the seller is registered as a business seller.
Use the 'ask seller a question' feature. A genuine seller will respond.
Use PayPal for payment. This protects you as a buyer.
Use common sense. If it looks to good to be true it probably is.
As long as you are careful you should have no problems and you may get that PlayStation 3 in time for Christmas.
Good luck!
cheque youre speling
Chandelier Glossary
Arm ~ The light bearing part of a chandelier sometimes known as a branch.
Bag ~ A bag of crystal drops formed by strings hanging from a circular frame and looped back into the centre underneath, associated with regency style crystal chandeliers.
Bead ~ A glass drop with a hole drilled right through.
Bobeche ~ A dish fitted just below the "candle" nozzle designed to catch drips of wax. Also known as a drip pan.
Candelabra ~ Not to be confused with chandeliers, candelabras are candlesticks, usually branched and designed to stand on tables, or if large, the floor.
Canopy ~ An inverted shallow dish at the top of a chandelier from which festoons of beads are often suspended, lending a flourish to the top of the fitting.
Cage ~ An arrangement where the central stem supporting arms and decorations is replaced by a metal structure leaving the centre clear fpr candles or other embellishments.
Corona ~ Another term for a crown-style chandelier.
Crown ~ A circular chandelier reminiscent of a crown, usually of gilded metal or brass and often with upstanding decorative parts.
Crystal ~ Glass with a lead content that gives it a special qualities of clarity. Also known as lead crystal.
Drip Pan ~ The dish fitted just under the "candle" nozzle. Also known as a bobeche.
Drop ~ A small piece of glass usually cut into one of many shapes and drilled at one end so that it can be hung from the chandelier with a brass pin. A chaindrop is drilled at both ends so that a group can be hung together to form a string or festoon.
Dutch ~ Also known as Flemish. A style of brass chandelier with a bulbous baluster ad arms curing down around a low hung ball.
Festoon ~ An arrangement of glass drops or beads draped and hung across or down a chandelier or sometimes a piece of solid glass shaped into a swag. \also known as a garland.
Finial ~ The final flourish at the very bottom of the stem. Some Venetian glass chandeliers have little finials hanging from glass rings on the arms.
Hoop ~ A circular metal support for arms, usually on a regency style or other chandelier with glass pieces. Also known as a ring.
Neoclassical Style Chandelier ~ Glass chandelier featuring many delicate arms, spires and striongs of beads.
Prism ~ A straight, many sided drop.
Regenecy Style Chandelier ~ A larger chandelier with a multitude of drops. Above a hoop rise strings of beads that diminish in size and attach at the top to form a canopy. A bag with concentric rings of pointed glass, forms a waterfall beneath. Th estem is usually completely hidden.
Spire ~A tall spike of glass, round in section or flat sided. To which arms and decorative elements may be attached, made from wood, metal or glass.
Tent ~ A tent shaped structure on the upper part of achandelier wherestrings ofdrops attach to a canopy and at the bottom to a larger ring.
Venetian ~ A glass from the island of Murano, Venice but usually used to describe and chandelier in venetian style.
Waterfall ~ Concentric rings of icicle drops suspended beneath the hoop or plate.
Guide to Buying Electric Toothbrushes
For most people brushing their teeth is second nature. The main reason we use a toothbrush is to remove plaque, bacteria, stains and foodthat constantlyaccumulateson our teeth. This plaque bacteriacauses bad breath andeats into tooth enamel creating cavities.
Dentistsrecommend you brush your teeth twice a day: in the morning and before bed. Problems with manual toothbrushes include not reaching all areas and also pressing on too hard.
When using an electric toothbrush we advise you read the instructions supplied before first use. Electric toothbrushes do most of the brushing for you, meaning allyou do ismove the brush around and let the motorised bristle head do the work.
Too much pressure or overbrushing for too long can lead problems including damage to the gums, onset of gingivitis and damaged teeth enamel. Using an electric toothbrush such as the Braun Oral-B or PhilipsSonicare range allow you to regulate the brushing time and pressure appliedas most models includea built in timer and pressure sensor.
Basic tips
Budget: There is always an electric toothbrush to suit every budget so check all products available
Graded Products: Watch out for these, they are quite common on auction sites - especially ebay. Its when a seller or company buys a bulk of damaged or used items, rebuilds/repackages them and sells them on at a very low price. Best way to spot these is to check the price: if the rrp for an item is 30 and someone is posing to sell a new one for 12 then there must be a good reason. Always ask direct questions if not sure and check the sellers feedback
Returns:Occasionally some brushes have faults, make sure a seller accepts returns on faulty goods
VOTE YES TO MAKE THE BUYING EXPERIENCE EASIERWHEN PURCHASING DENTAL CARE PRODUCTS
Xenon Headlight HID Conversion Kit Guide
JMNutrition - beware
How do you start a guide to buying from a seller who 5/6 weeks on is still making excuses and refusing to refund for a product bought in good faith?
I've never felt the need to write one of these before but after my experiences with this company I feel the need to share my complete contempt for them.
In early June I opted to buy one of their weightloss products and well over 1 month on I'm glad to say that I'm at my target weight. Not through the use of their product but through being so worked up by this seller's incompetance and excuses leading to sheer frustration and hammering it down the gym instead.
I completed my end of a transaction where the goods were promised within 48 hours. 2 weeks on, and with nothing received, I contacted them and received a reply from"Paul"to have the postal service blamed and that I should take it up with my local delivery office. I gave them the benefit of the doubt and contacted the delivery office who confirmed nothing received or returned from them.
At this point I opted to go back to the seller and unbelievably received an entirely different response to the original mail, again from Paul. This time it was claimed that the product wasn't in fact available at the time of purchase due to their shipment having been delayed at customs and asking for my patience.
After another week's wait I contacted the seller again to be informed by "Liam" that the hold up was in fact due to staff shortages, it had been sent and according to him should be with me within 24 hours.. Fair enough I'll wait another day but to my amazement I logged on the following day to find another completely different response from "Paul". Yet again he was blaming the postal service and was completely unaware of the mail I'd received just a few hours earlier.
At this point my patience had worn thin so I responded quite bluntly and made it absolutely clear that I was no longer interested in excuses. I also advised at this point that I would be raising my complaint with Paypal. A response was received the following day from "Jenna" this time claiming that the item had not yet been posted, again due to staff shortages, but was being sent recorded mail that very day. I grudgingly accepted this as knowing it should have a tracking number left me a bit more reassured. The same day I received yet another mail from "Paul" begging that I do not raise the issue with Paypal as they prefer to resolve issues themselves!
Given a postal strike I left it a couple of days and contacted them for the tracking number. The response I received, from "Paul",completely glossed over this and suggested it would be resent again only to receive another response from "Liam" ten minutes later stating it had been resent the previous day. This I didn't quite understand, If they had sent it recorded delivery why would there be any need for it to be resent.
I replied back asking them to clarify as 3 different representatives of the seller were now giving me conflicting information. The response to this, again from "Paul", was simply that it was being resent and completely ignoring the fact they claim it was already sent twice within the past 5 days.
I'd had enough, I wanted a refund and made this clear in my next mail only to be informed the seller does not provide refunds on items which they have dispatched!
My dispute has today been lodged with paypal to decide having given them ample opportunity to resolve this. Unfortunately I don't appear to be the only 1 affected by their incompetance. Granted they appear to be a large
A Guide to Buying Haunted Items
significantly over the last few years, and, with it, the possibility
for fraud. This text is meant to serve as a general guide for buyers
seeking to acquire these items. I am writing this essay as a
concerned co-eBayer, not as a critic of any specific seller. Remember,
you worked very hard for your money and, despite what any witch or
seller may claim, wealth itself is not easy to come by. You
deserve to receive a genuine item (or at least an item that the seller
believes to be genuine). You do not deserve to be defrauded, deceived,
or bamboozled, and you certainly do not deserve to have your own
dreams, needs, and insecurities used to manipulate you into purchasing
a potentially worthless object. As always, think carefully before bidding. I hope that the considerations contained here will be of some help to you. Examine each listing carefully and ask yourself the questions you find important.Preliminaries